A leatherback turtle showing off its aquatic acrobatics as it makes a quick turn
Tucked in the southeastern corner of the Indonesian archipelago, the Kei Islands are known for their warm and crystal-clear waters. Liveaboard scuba divers often visit these remote islands to dive with large pelagics and colorful reefs. But this region also serves as a major feeding ground for one of the largest and oldest reptiles on Earth: the leatherback sea turtle.
Leatherback turtles are an ancient species that have existed in their current form since the time of the dinosaurs. Resembling dinosaurs in appearance as well, they are the largest of all sea turtles, growing up to 10 feet long and weighing as much as 2,000 pounds (though the average individual is around 6 feet and 1,000 pounds). Unlike other sea turtles, which have hard shells, leatherbacks have smooth, leathery skin covering a flexible matrix of bone. This structure allows them to withstand extreme pressures and dive to depths of up to 4,000 feet, making them one of the deepest-diving animals in existence!
My first experience with leatherback turtles was in 2018 on a trip to Costa Rica, where I saw a large female turtle nesting on a beach. Though I wasn't a photographer at the time, I was so in awe of her sheer size and presence, that leatherbacks quickly became my favorite sea turtle. In 2023, I sought to capture on camera the magic of what I had seen five years prior, and I traveled to Trinidad, an important nesting site for the Atlantic leatherback population. My encounters there were equally awe-inspiring, which made me long even more to observe them underwater. When I learned of the opportunities that were possible in the feeding grounds of the Kei Islands, I jumped at the chance to join a trip.
Trinidad, a small island in the southeastern Caribbean is an vital nesting ground for Atlantic leatherbacks
As with many pelagic encounters, conditions were often challenging. Leatherbacks only come to the surface to breathe or rest, and they can stay underwater for up to 85 minutes at a time. In this area, they mostly feed on tomato jellyfish, which descend deeper into the ocean during the day.
Spectacular in their own right, tomato jellyfish are a staple food source for the leatherbacks around the Kei Islands
As a result, the turtles spend most of their time out of sight, diving for snacks. The days were long and hot, and we spent endless hours sitting in small uncovered wooden boats, bruising our bums while scouring the ocean for anything turtle-shaped. Calm, clear days made it easier to see turtles on the surface, but they would sometimes dive as soon as they heard the boat approach, often while we were still at a distance. When seas were rougher, the turtles were only visible when we were practically right next to them, making in-water encounters slightly easier but spotting extremely difficult. The water, though warm, was murkier than normal, making conditions harder for photography. Frequently, encounters were less than a minute, as the turtles would dive down into the deep as soon as they noticed us. The ones that remained near the surface would occasionally swim around, but more often they would swim away or turn their backs toward us, an instinctive position for protection.
A portrait of a Pacific leatherback. This one has a torn fin, which could be a result of fishermen, attempted predation or a boat strike
Because encounters were quick and I wanted to prioritize maneuverability, I used my Nikon D850 with a Nikon 8-15mm fisheye lens + 1.4x Kenko teleconverter under a small (140mm) dome. The water had a bit of particulate, so I relied on getting as close to my subject as possible for clear shots. I mounted my Inon Z-330 strobes on short arms, and I kept the power low for faster recycling, as the turtles would typically make only a single pass, at best, before disappearing into the deep.
Their skittishness toward human presence is understandable. Between October and December, when the ocean is relatively calm, up to 200 leatherbacks are hunted each year by local villages. In the area, eight villages maintain traditional hunting practices, approaching turtles in wooden boats and harpooning them through their soft carapaces or necks while they are resting on the surface. These hunting techniques are highly efficient, with some villages catching up to 13 turtles in a single day. From a turtle's perspective, our boat would look and sound no different from those of the hunters.
With a small entourage, this leatherback flips over to make a quick dive into the depths
Historically, leatherback hunting was governed by local laws known as adat, which emphasized sustainable hunting for sustenance and prohibits harvest for trade or sale. However, in the past 30 years, adherence to adat has waned. Population growth and the depletion of other food sources on land, such as deer and wild pigs, have increased the demand and necessity for turtle meat. At the same time, cultural shifts have led to turtle meat now being used as a trading commodity, a violation of traditional adat values.
The increased hunting pressure has placed this already vulnerable population under immense strain. The Pacific leatherback is listed as "Critically Endangered" on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species, with as few as than 2,300 adult females remaining. Their population has declined over 80% since the 1980s. By 2040, scientists have predicted only 100 nesting pairs will remain. It is tragic to think that we could witness the extinction of the Pacific leatherback population -- a species that has survived for over 150 million years -- within our lifetime.
Fortunately, some local villages are beginning to recognize the threats facing these culturally significant animals, and organizations like WWF and NOAA are working to promote environmental education and reduce hunting and poaching. Ultimately, though, the long-term survival of this species depends on local community involvement and a shared commitment to conservation. We can only hope that the tide can be turned before it's too late.
Have you ever seen a leatherback turtle smile? It is easy to anthropomorphize these magnificent reptiles