It's the time of year again when I share my answers to questions from readers that I think are of general interest. Some answers are followed by commentary (C) to explain more details.
Choosing a new tree in West Ashley
Q: That last storm took down a large tree in a wooded corner of my lot. I think there is room for two small trees. This area is in shade until about noon, then has afternoon sun. Do you have any suggestions?
A: Afternoon sun typically means choosing a tree that tolerates full sun because of how intense the sun is at that time of day. Should the trees be evergreen, have flowers or colorful fall foliage? What type of soil do you have: sandy or heavy?
Columnists Gardening column: Your guide to gardening in the Lowcountry By Darcy Whalen
Q: I would like something visually interesting, preferably flowering. Fall foliage is nice but not a top priority. My soil is typical of West Ashley, which is dense with clay. The spot is on the edge of a wooded area with roots under the surface.
A: A crepe myrtle or two should do the trick. They flower, can handle afternoon sun and West Ashley soil. They need full sun by 2 p.m. to flower decently. If you want to plant two trees, look for a smaller cultivar, preferably one with a Native American name. That group of cultivars was bred by the U.S. National Arboretum to have high resistance to powdery mildew.
C: The extra information about the type of tree (or shrub) and the soil is needed to select a shrub and follow the "right plant, right place" rule of thumb. A chaste tree (vitex) would also work in that spot.
Watering woody transplantsQ: We planted a small deciduous tree in our yard in May, but it is not doing very well, even though it gets partial shade. Many of the leaves have already fallen, particularly on the top branches. The landscaper who installed the sprinkler system felt this happened due to not getting enough water.
A: I agree with your landscaper that your tree lost leaves already due to drought stress. This fall we were in an almost record-breaking dry period. Your tree needs extra watering for the first year, particularly since the large tree behind it probably has roots in its root zone.
Columnists Gardening column: Prep your plants for the frost By Tony Bertauski
Sprinklers do not provide enough water for newly transplanted trees. Either use a slow-running hose to water the tree in two or three spots around the trunk for 10 minutes each once a week or provide about eight gallons of water once to twice a week. The soil surface should just start to dry between waterings.
C: The issue of relying on sprinklers to water newly transplanted trees and large shrubs is one I have seen again and again. Sprinklers and drip irrigation provide enough water for established woody ornamentals, although we plant pathologists do not like watering techniques that wet the leaves. "Water the soil, not the leaves." Newly transplanted woody ornamentals that came in pots larger than one gallon need extra and deep watering for six to 12 months after transplanting, depending on natural rainfall.
Pruning plumbago
Q: I read that plumbagos should be cut back in March to get the maximum number of flowers. Is that your experience? I would like to cut them back sooner, but I don't want to do the wrong thing. How much should we cut off?
Columnists Gardening Column: Enjoy Japanese maples year-round By Anthony Keinath
A: You can clean plumbago up after a hard freeze kills the top growth if you leave the bottom 12 inches of the stems intact and spread mulch around the crowns of the plants to protect them from future freezes. Mid-March (in Charleston) is my preferred time to cut back tender perennials like plumbago. One benefit of waiting is, in spring, you can tell how much of the top has remained alive. Cut the stems back to just above any fresh growth.
Bonus deer content
Finally, two readers in Mount Pleasant wrote to say deer will eat both flowers and leaves of society garlic in Dunes West. That subdivision is known for having very hungry deer who will eat plants that are not eaten in other area.