Hair Growth Oil Doesn't Really Work. Just Buy the Minoxidil.

Catharine Malzahn, Sabina Wizemann

November 25, 2024 at 11:55 PM

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Hair growth oils are a booming business right now, from natural options like rosemary oil to pre-formulated products on store shelves. While hair oils have been used for centuries, they seem to be experiencing a surge in popularity, likely influenced by the fact that more than half of women will experience noticeable hair loss at some point in their lives. With so many people turning to these products -- whether to address hair loss or thinning or simply to enhance fullness -- it raises an important question: Do hair growth oils actually work?

Unfortunately, the truth is that hair growth oils aren't miracles in a bottle (don't expect to achieve super-long, ultra-thick hair overnight). That said, experts say they do offer some proven benefits. Here, I'm breaking down the various types of hair growth oils, key ingredients to look for, whether any products can truly promote hair growth, how quickly they work and more.

Types of hair growth oils

Hair growth oils "typically contain a combination of natural and essential oils, plant extracts and vitamins, which are all said to enhance hair health," says GH Beauty Lab Director Sabina Wizemann. You can either buy hair growth products (like oils or serums) that have been pre-formulated with multiple ingredients, or you can purchase single-ingredient oils (such as rosemary oil) to use on your hair. Hair growth oils usually contain either one or more of the following ingredients:

Coconut Oil

Studies show that coconut oil can penetrate and cover the hair's cuticle, helping to increase the strength of the hair shaft. However, there is weak evidence that shows it can support hair growth, Wizemann says.

Castor Oil

This oil can improve scalp moisturization and smooth frizzy hair strands, Wizemann says. Do not use pure castor oil on your hair, as it "can irritate and cause allergies," she adds. "It is commonly diluted by other oils" to avoid irritation, she explains. Its benefits are mostly related to protecting and moisturizing the hair, not growing hair.

Rosemary Oil

A very common oil included in natural hair growth products, studies have noted the efficacy of rosemary in promoting hair growth. In one study, results showed that rosemary oil may be as effective as 2% minoxidil in promoting hair growth and can mimic the benefits of minoxidil.

Tea Tree Oil

It has some demonstrated benefits in helping with hair growth as well, says Candace Thornton Spann, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and hair loss expert at Couture Dermatology and Plastic Surgery in Las Vegas and founder of ReTress. She adds that this is likely because of its anti-microbial properties. It can also help reduce inflammation on the scalp, and "since an inflamed scalp will lose its hair, it makes sense that it may be helpful in reducing shedding," explains Dr. Spann.

Bhringraj Oil

The Ayurvedic herb is a "natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial ingredient that supports scalp health," says Kerry E. Yates, trichologist and founder of Colour Collective. "Good scalp health leads to follicle fitness, which provides support for hair growth." Note that bhringraj oil can stain hair, so do not leave it on lighter strands for an extended period of time, she advises.

Peppermint and argan oils are also commonly found in hair growth products, though proof of their efficacy is limited. "Some studies suggest that peppermint oil might promote hair growth, but these findings are based on animal research and there is currently no evidence that this applies to humans," Wizemann explains. "The menthol present in peppermint oil widens blood vessels and helps circulation, indicating that it could possibly nourish hair follicles." As for argan oil, "there is no evidence that it directly promotes hair growth and stimulates follicles, but it can moisturize, protect and add shine to hair," she says.

Do hair growth oils actually work?

In short, not really. Hair growth oils may enhance hair health, but they "lack a proven biological mechanism for promoting hair growth," says Wizemann. Instead, they can strengthen hair, improve its appearance, enhance scalp health and prevent breakage, which can "create the illusion of thicker, healthier hair without altering the hair follicle's growth cycle," she explains. Dr. Spann adds that aside from rosemary oil -- which has "the most clinical evidence supporting its role in hair regrowth" -- hair oils primarily help hair look thicker and fuller rather than directly stimulating growth.

Does anything help promote hair growth?

Hair oil may not directly stimulate hair growth, but a few other options can.

Minoxidil or finasteride

These are both FDA-approved options. Minoxidil is a "topical solution shown to encourage hair follicles and extend the growth phase of hair," says Wizemann. Rogaine is a common brand, and our Beauty Lab experts recommend Rogaine 5% Unscented Minoxidil Foam.

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Finasteride (brand name Propecia) is an oral treatment that can treat androgenic alopecia (male pattern hair loss), but note that it is approved by the FDA for use in men only, not women. Topical spironolactone is another prescription Dr. Spann recommends.

Low-level laser therapy (LLLT)

This treatment has shown potentially promising results, especially if used in combination with minoxidil and/or finasteride. LLLT "employs low-intensity red or infrared light to activate hair follicles and encourage hair growth," says Wizemann. It's available as an in-office treatment or as products on the market, often in the form of laser combs or laser caps. These devices "enhance blood circulation to the scalp, which in turn can energize hair follicles," she says.

Scalp microneedling

Microneedling, a professional treatment, creates micro-punctures in the skin on your scalp. This "can improve the absorption of topical treatments and potentially boost hair growth by stimulating collagen production on the scalp," Wizemann says.

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP), stem cell therapy and topical exosomes

There are several emerging therapies that have shown promise as well. PRP involves "injecting concentrated platelets into the scalp to stimulate hair follicles, and research has indicated encouraging outcomes for hair regrowth," says Wizemann, whereas stem cell therapy injects stem cells into the scalp instead. She notes that they are in the experimental stage, but "they demonstrate the potential to regenerate damaged hair follicles." Dr. Spann adds that using topical exosomes are also showing "tremendous promise" in helping hair growth.

Addressing hair challenges requires a holistic approach, as growing hair involves more than just topical treatments. "It's essential to make lifestyle changes," says Yates, such as eating a balanced diet, taking vitamins if needed, maintaining a clean scalp and reducing tension or pulling on the scalp. As for what to avoid, Yates recommends skipping products that contain heavy oils or silicones, as "they can clog follicles if used directly on the scalp."

How fast do hair growth products work?

According to our experts, if using a product containing minoxidil, you should start seeing results about 90 days after beginning your regimen, though changes may be noticeable as early as six weeks, say Yates and Dr. Spann.

If you're wondering if you can make hair grower faster, the answer is yes -- improving blood flow to the scalp and reducing scalp inflammation can help speed up hair growth, explains Dr. Spann. Yates recommends massaging your scalp for at least four minutes daily to boost blood circulation and support healthier growth.

The bottom line

Hair growth oils won't give you Rapunzel-like locks overnight, but they can help enhance density and fullness. If you want to promote actual hair growth, your best option is likely to start using minoxidil.

Using oil on your hair isn't harmful and may even improve scalp health and strengthen existing hair. However, it's unlikely to deliver dramatic results. "While hair oils might improve scalp condition and fortify existing hair, there is limited evidence that they directly induce new hair growth," explains Wizemann.

The Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab does not test or recommend hair growth products other than those containing minoxidil.

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