This year, Loudoun County, Virginia, raised a glass to 40 years of exceptional winemaking. It all began when longtime winemaker Lew Parker planted his first grapes in 1980 on the rocky terrain of his mountaintop farm south of Leesburg. "Those first grapes I planted all died because I planted them in the wrong place," says Parker via email. Despite these challenges, Parker persisted through trial and error, and four years later, released his first wine in 1984 -- a vintage riesling under his Willowcroft Farm Vineyards label. Today, Loudoun County has blossomed into a thriving wine destination thanks to Parker's pioneering spirit.
Parker's journey into the wine industry began by chance when he moved to Loudoun County in 1979 to raise animals for his daughters' 4-H activities. Seeking a high-value crop for his farm, Parker discovered his true passion for viticulture. "While there were vineyards before us, we were the first bonded winery in Loudoun County with the first federal license," Parker says.
Since then, Parker has inspired other aspiring winemakers, including the Breaux Family. In 1994, the Breauxs became fascinated by a 404-acre parcel of land in the county with three acres of grapevines planted in 1985. During their research, they learned that Dave Collins, vineyard manager at Willowcroft Farm, had tended to the vines years prior. Despite years of neglect, the vines were still bearing fruit.
Jennifer Breaux, president and general manager of Breaux Vineyards, says via email, "Dave met with my father several times, and together they nurtured the vines that would become our "Old Vine" vintages." That same year, the family established Grand Oak Farm and Vineyard. "We began planting various grapes and, by 1997, produced our first vintage. This marked the beginning of Breaux Vineyards," Breaux explains. Collins later joined as the vineyard's first winemaker and vineyard manager.
Situated on 104 acres, Breaux Vineyards cultivates 17 varietals and is renowned for its Old World-style wines, including award-winning nebbiolo and meritage blends. Among the winery's current accolades are three gold awards at the prestigious 2024 Virginia Governor's Cup awards, with their 2019 The Fog Nebbiolo Reserve making the Governor's Cup Case -- a collection representing the 12 highest-ranked wines in Virginia.
The Breauxs maintain a deep sense of gratitude to Parker and Collins for their contributions to their family's journey as grape growers and winemakers. "We will always be grateful to Lew for his trailblazing efforts in Loudoun's wine industry, for employing Dave as winemaker, for remaining a supporter when Dave joined our family winery, and for Dave, who crafted world-class wines from the premium fruit he helped to grow," Breaux says.
Bob and Loree Rupy, founders of October One Vineyard (O1V), also cite Parker as a profound source of inspiration. As one of the county's newest winemakers, the Rupys officially launched their brand and began selling their wines at Loudoun farmers markets and restaurants in 2018.
Their initial approach deviated from the traditional "tasting room on the vineyard" model. Rather than opening their farm to the public, they chose to sell their products in person at local events throughout the county. Loree says via email, "This was a great way to connect with Virginia wine enthusiasts and those supporting farm-to-table products and experiences." As their brand gained recognition and their wine club member base expanded, they opened the O1V Virginia Wine Tasting Shop in downtown Leesburg in 2021.
All of O1V's wines are 100 percent estate-grown, with a focus on 100 percent varietal wines. Their 2022 Albariño is not only a best seller but was also selected for the 2024 Virginia Governor's Cup case.
When Kerem Baki established Hillsborough Winery, Brewery, and Vineyards in 2001, he sought the expertise of agricultural specialists at Virginia Tech to determine the most suitable grape varietals for his land. The experts advised that varietals from Southwest France would be optimal for his vineyard, so Baki planted tannat, fer servadou, and petit verdot. His vineyard's flagship red wine, Ruby, is a full-bodied blend of these three grapes, offering a distinctive fruit-forward intensity with excellent tannins, structure, and flavor. Hillsborough Vineyards & Brewery grows 100 percent of its fruit on-site. Baki emphasizes the significance of this practice, stating via email, "Growing all of our grapes provides our consumers with a true sense of place in every glass."
To commemorate the county's 40th anniversary, Baki oversaw the creation of the 40th Anniversary Loudoun red blend. Collaborating with 11 other Loudoun County wineries, including Breaux Vineyards, he says, "The 40th-anniversary blend is a tribute to those who have come before and showcases the great complexity and diversity you can find here in Virginia."
Dubbed "D.C.'s Wine Country" by Visit Loudoun, the county's wine industry has grown into a $42 million industry, with more than 50 wineries and a network of state extension agents and experts supporting Virginia's grape growers through scientific research, outreach, and education. For Parker, winemaking has been a lifelong learning process, offering unexpected exposure to disciplines ranging from science to geography and politics. He shares, "There is always something new to learn, so I keep doing it."
Parker believes the future of Loudoun County's wine industry looks promising and will continue to grow steadily, given the county's proximity to Washington, D.C. He says, "Who knows? Maybe our national legislators can sort out the nation's problems over a glass of Loudoun wine."